Sunday, August 19, 2007

Dark Water, Silvery Salmon and a Paradise Worth the Trip

HUMBER VALLEY, Newfoundland — The helicopter moved like a drunk descending a staircase, lurching and rocking while the backwash of its fiberglass blades whipped the tall, pale green grass along Newfoundland’s Main River into a frothy, snapping mass. We landed with a slight bump and four of us clambered out, clutching fly rods and waders, blinking in the bright morning sunlight.

In less than four hours via jet and helicopter, we had traveled from the New York megalopolis to the Humber River Valley and a remote pine forest with a slash of black river running through it.
The camp, tucked on the downwind side of a swale, featured an ancient, horizontal meat pole fixed to two spruce trees. In a deer camp, you could do chin-ups on the typical meat pole, but this was moose country; the pole was a good 10 feet off the ground. A dented kettle was hung on one of the numerous limbs and stumps that had been hacked and whittled away to create storage options the typical apartment dweller can only dream of.
“We better get down to the river, boys, before she gets too hot,” Kelly said. “Then we can come back and get a good fry going.” ...

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